From Alpine dams to Art Deco power stations, engineering becomes an adventure

Up the valley in Valdidentro, just beyond the Torri di Fraele, lie the twin Cancano lakes. Construction began in the 1940s with the San Giacomo dam, 91 metres high and nearly a kilometre across. Cancano II followed in the 1950s, its wall soaring to 136 metres. Together, they form a stunning 20km loop — best tackled on foot or, better yet, by gravel or mountain bike. Peaks and glaciers reflect in turquoise water as you climb; park close by to the towers, or add Cancano’s legendary hairpin climb to your cycling route for the full reward.  

In Valmalenco, the Alpe Gera and Campomoro dams stand as mid-century engineering icons with an unexpected cultural twist. Italian singer-songwriter RAF filmed a music video at Alpe Gera in 2007, while Campomoro hosted World Cup high-diving events in 2009 and 2011. Built between 1958 and 1965, the basins collect the waters of the Fellaria and Scerscen glaciers. At 2,051 metres, Alpe Gera is Italy’s highest operating dam. Crossing its wall is unforgettable — raw concrete, alpine silence, and sheer drop-offs. Circular hikes link to Alpe Gembrè (2,224m) or Rifugio Bignami. Plus, sport fishing is also permitted June through October with a regional licence.  

Farther west, Valchiavenna’s Montespluga lake was formed in 1931 by damming the Liro river. Its dramatic setting has inspired filmmakers, appearing in a cult 1985 movie and, more recently, in a Mahmood music video. Today, visitors come for the varied hiking routes, especially the 6.6km route to Lago Nero, or the 12km Rifugio Bertacchi circular. The scenery shifts from the rugged rock faces of the Cardinello gorge to more mellow landscapes around the lake and village.

 The story doesn’t end with the dams. Valtellina’s hydroelectric network began in 1900 at Campovico, just outside Morbegno, built to power the valley’s railways. It was the first of what would become 86 hydro plants — a network of various size plants that still hums beneath the mountains. Some, like the Mese station of 1927, were once among the most powerful in Europe. What’s most eye-catching, though, is the architecture. Belle Époque flourishes, Jugendstil windows and Art Deco façades appear where you least expect them, set against alpine pastures. Fraele power station (construction began 1922; operational from 1928) is a highlight: decommissioned in 2004, it is industrial archaeology at its most photogenic and open for guided visits in summer as part of the Water Routes Po Valley ERIH project.

Several stations remain in operation and welcome visitors by appointment. Lanzada’s Alfredo Pizzoli plant offers guided tours and interactive visits (book via 0342 451150 or info@sondrioevalmalenco.it). In Grosio, A2A hosts tours of its 1917 Pietro Portaluppi–designed station (including its 600-metre tunnel carved into the mountain). And in Valchiavenna, the Prata (Mera II) plant also opens its doors, offering another perspective on the intersection of energy, design, and landscape.